Visiting a prison in Quito, Ecuador

My arm was stamped at the prison entrance
to show I was a visitor.

Ever wonder what it’s like to live in a South American prison? Just visit one! Travelers to Ecuador can visit the women’s and men’s prisons in Quito.

OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL #1

The Place: Carcel de las Mujeres (women’s prison) in Quito, Ecuador
Date of Visit: Feb. 17, 2008 (Sunday)
Journal Entry Date: Feb. 22, 2008

“I entered with the name of the of the prison’s only American prisoner – Melanie – surrendered my passport, camera and cell phone, got stamped on the left wrist to prove I didn’t belong there, and entered. I saw what looked like the alley of a major city, with clotheslines strewn all over the place between tall buildings, and children everywhere. They were just madly playing.

An Ecuadorian prisoner came up to ask who I was looking for. Melanie, I said. She told me to follow her to one corridor, then ran up the stairs yelling, “Melanie! Melanieeee!” … She asked around and finally led me to a room at the end of the alley. Then she came at me demanding money. I didn't actually understand her, but since she had her hand out, it was pretty obvious. And I'd read that they expected some money. I handed over a quarter and she took off.

Melanie came out and gave me a hug like I was an old friend. I awkwardly handed over my gift of tampons, panty liners, and a bar of soap I’d gotten from a hotel. She put it in a stack of stuff without looking and led me to where she and a South African prisoner were chatting with three other visitors.

Melanie’s story is that she agreed to be a drug mule. She’d fly to Ecuador, pick up drugs from a guy who’d come from Colombia, and then fly back to the States. At some point she changed her mind and called the drug dealer to back out, but by then he’d kidnapped her daughter in America. So she went along with it, and they arrested her in Guayaquil. They had apprehended the guy at the Colombian border, finding on him 6 kilos of heroin and her name – misspelled – and flight arrival. She’d never touched the drugs when they arrested her. …They slapped her with 4 years. She’s been in jail more than two years and is hoping for a prisoner transfer to the U.S. sometime soon.

I don’t know how much I believe. She clearly loves her daughter, but she’s pregnant again – I opted not to ask about THAT – and was smoking. That just seems kind of fucked up. But then again, I’m not the one who spent more than two years in an Ecuadorian prison, so who am I to judge?

The prison was fascinating. It’s built for about 200-300 women but holds 500-some. There are about 17 foreigners, who tend to spend time together. Prisoners pay for everything except food, although the food is shit and it’s best to cook some yourself or buy from one of several food stalls in the prison. Melanie’s family can’t send her money, but one friend has provided money for everything, including a lawyer. There’s also a confectionery, which sells things at a jacked-up price.

...There are times when you’re free to roam most of the jail, and times when you’re confined to your pavilion (which includes a squalid kitchen and showers) or your room. The rooms are tiny and have 3 prisoners, 2 on the bottom bunk and one on top. Melanie’s room includes a TV and DVD player, which I consider pretty damn sweet. In her pavilion all the doors had glitter-lined hearts with words like “Amistad” and “Amor.” Valentine’s Day just passed, after all.

…When you’re locked in your room, no amount of banging’s likely to get the guard to open the door. Someone could die and they wouldn’t let them out until morning. It’s best to keep a bucket in the room if you have to pee in the middle of the night.

…I left before visiting hours ended, paranoid that someone would steal the camera and cell phone I was forced to leave outside. I crowded with several other visitors around the exit, eagerly showing the stamps on my wrist as my passport to freedom.”

What You Should Know: To get in, just say you’re there to visit (INSERT NAME HERE). A list of current foreign prisoners can be found at hostels such as El Centro del Mundo and Secret Garden. Visiting hours are Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday from 10 am-noon and 1-4 pm (times are approximate). If you’re feeling charitable, bring a gift, such as food (I brought feminine products and if you read further you’ll see my gift was no good). If you take a taxi, tell them to bring you to Carcel de las Mujerers, en Ave El Inca y 6 de Diciembre.


I didn’t visit the men’s prison, but this guy did. It's a good read.