Friday, February 23, 2018

My wonderful father has died


Hao Van Vu, who left Vietnam after the war and built a new life in southern California, died on Feb. 20 after a lengthy battle with lung cancer. He was 67.

Vu was born in 1950 in Nam Dinh in north Vietnam. After the country split in 1954, the Vu family moved to Hue and then Saigon, where Hao graduated from law school. He would go to dances with his friends and drink coffee at cafes frequented by foreign correspondents. A few days before Saigon fell to Communist forces, Hao’s family fled Vietnam on a warship. Their journey over the next few months took them to the Philippines, Guam, Fort Chaffee, Ark., and eventually Nauvoo, Ill., where they were sponsored by the local Catholic convent. While there, the Vu’s befriended one of the only other Vietnamese families in the vicinity, the Phams of Keokuk, Iowa, where Hao met his future wife, Kim Tuyen.

Hao followed the Phams when they moved to California. Kim did not initially like Hao and only agreed to a first date at her mother’s urging. She wore all black and ordered a shrimp noodle dish, but ate only the shrimp to prove a point. They married and settled in the area that would become Little Saigon. One by one, Hao’s parents and the rest of his six siblings made their way to Orange County, where they still live today.

Hao worked as a drafter and engineer for several aerospace companies for 20-some years, while he and Kim also learned the ropes of small business by starting the Yogi’s Yogurt and Video Cup (later Star Video) empires. They eventually found success in real estate, with Kim once voicing that she hoped Hao would be fired from Boeing so that he could work full time for her. He tried, but despite showing up in ripped jeans, taking long midday breaks, and reading novels at work, he was just too valuable to fire. Kim eventually got her wish when he quit.

He was a great family man, putting three kids through graduate school. He called dibs on their diplomas, which he hung proudly in his home office. He helped care for several nieces and nephews who fondly remember the summer or year they lived with the Vu Phamily. Despite this, he relished the reputation he had as the gruff uncle. He loved it when his sisters warned their kids, “Be good or I’ll tell on you to Uncle Hao.” When children tried to get their way by crying, he cheerfully urged them to “cry louder, nobody cares!” heedless of how many passersby looked on in alarm. One of his now-grown nieces admitted to using this technique on her own children.

He constantly sent money back to Vietnam to help disabled veterans and the Catholic community. Hao and Kim have donated to repair churches and buy land for a cemetery. They helped build a brand new church, Nha Tho Xu Yen Khe, for Yen Khe parish in Ninh Binh, Kim’s home province. The Vietnamese parishioners have been praying for Hao since the cancer returned, and several churches are planning to celebrate a mass in his honor.

He loved road trips. Hao and Kim thought nothing of spontaneously going on a six-hour drive to visit their son Peter in Sacramento. They once drove into Mexico by accident and then called their daughter Pauline asking if she could Google whether they’d be allowed back into the U.S. without their passports (spoiler alert: they were). They traveled to Europe, Central America, the Caribbean, China, Mexico, all over the U.S., and made numerous trips to Vietnam. On one such visit, Hao ate bun bo Hue every day the family was in that city. On the day when they were scheduled to leave Hue early, Hao and his daughter Jackie got up at the crack of dawn and took a cyclo to their favorite restaurant to squeeze in one last bowl.

He loved dancing, singing karaoke, and meeting up with his many friends. He was an excellent party host — people still talk about Hao and Kim’s 38th anniversary blowout. One of his great joys was reconnecting with the law school friends he had known in Saigon since people had scattered after the war.

Hao is survived and beloved by his wife and three children; his mother and father-in-law; two dozen siblings and siblings-in-law; a whole passel of nieces and nephews; more friends than even he knew he had; and seven dogs and two cats.

Wednesday, May 24, 2017

Watch all of the VMA Video of the Year nominees

Originally published on Aug. 27, 2015.

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Taylor Swift’s “Bad Blood” video is up for the VMAs’ top award.

The five nominees for the top prize at this year's MTV Video Music Awards run the gamut, from simple efforts and themes to big-budget blockbusters. Catch up on them before Sunday’s broadcast.

Beyoncé: 7/11

With the help of a selfie stick and some killer dance moves, Beyoncé made the world’s coolest home video.

Ed Sheeran: Thinking Out Loud

The British singer reportedly trained five hours a day during his U.S. tour to prepare for this video, and it shows. Next stop: Dancing With the Stars?

Slideshow: Fearless 2015 VMA Predictions

Kendrick Lamar: Alright

The almost seven-minute long video, filled with striking images that reference the conflict between African-Americans and the police, ends on a surreal note.

Mark Ronson Ft. Bruno Mars: Uptown Funk

Mark Ronson and Bruno Mars don their ‘80s gear and have a whole lot of fun dancing in the streets. Don’t believe me? Just watch.

Slideshow: Worst-Dressed Stars in VMAs History

Taylor Swift Ft. Kendrick Lamar: Bad Blood

If star power alone merits a win, then Swift has this one in the bag. "Bad Blood" broke Vevo’s 24-hour viewing record with 20.1 million views on its first day and boasts a host of famous faces, including Selena Gomez, Karlie Kloss, Lena Dunham, Cindy Crawford, and more.

HONORABLE MENTION

Nicki Minaj: Anaconda

The bootylicious video was arguably the hottest of 2014, setting the Vevo 24-hour viewing record with 19.6 million views before “Bad Blood” broke it, and Minaj didn’t hide her disappointment at being left out of the VMAs' marquee category. With the following tweet she set off a brief Twitter war with Taylor Swift and sparked a debate about race, beauty, and sexuality in the music industry:

Nicki Minaj Tweet Sets Off Twitter Skirmish with Taylor Swift

So was Minaj robbed? You be the judge. (explicit)

See More VMAs Content:

Kanye West to Receive VMA Video Vanguard Award

Slideshow: VMAs’ Most Surprising Best New Artist Snubs

Slideshow: Artists Who Have Won Most VMA Awards

—By Pauline Vu

Top 5 moments from Season 20 of ‘DWTS’

Originally published on Sept. 13, 2015.

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Season 20 winner Rumer Willis dances with pro Val Chmerkovskiy.

Dancing With the Stars is back, with an eclectic group of contestants that includes controversial celebrity chef Paula Deen, Steve Irwin’s daughter Bindi, and one of the heroes of the French train attack. Before tuning into the new season on Sept. 14, check out some highlights from Season 20.

5.  Riker Lynch channels Captain Jack Sparrow
During the show’s Disney Week, the R5 singer (and eventual 2nd place finisher) doubled down on the drama of his paso doble by dancing in full pirate costume.


4.  Robert Herjavec kisses partner Kym Johnson
The Shark Tank panelist and dancer Kym Johnson said they were in the moment when they kissed passionately during a routine and denied there was anything more to it. But the duo later confirmed that they were, indeed, dating (and still are).

Fall Preview Guide: 34 New Shows

3.  Awwwww, Noah and Jamie are in love
Army veteran and motivational speaker Noah Galloway got a huge surprise when his girlfriend, U.S. Army Reservist Jamie Boyd, got out of Basic Training early to come watch him dance live; later Galloway gave her an even bigger surprise: a marriage proposal.


2.  Rumer and Val earn the season’s first perfect score
Rumer Willis and pro dancer Val Chmerkovskiy scored big with a sensual rumba that wowed the judges, the audience, and her cheering mom, Demi Moore. The duo continued to dazzle through the season and ultimately took home the Mirror Ball Trophy.

The World’s Highest-Paid TV Actresses

1.  Bruno Toniolli totally disses Charlotte McKinney
The judge isn’t know for pulling punches, but the sexist digs he threw at the model/actress (known for a risqué Carl’s Jr. Super Bowl commercial) after a lackluster performance didn’t please the audience or the other judges. McKinney had quite a few things to say the following day about his comments.


Honorable Mentions:
Noah Galloway dances an inspirational freestyle

The double-amputee only expected to last a few weeks in the competition, and instead he made it to the finals. This emotional performance captured his difficult journey — and his resilience.


NFL players do a group paso doble

In the middle of the season the show ran its 10th anniversary special, featuring a host of former contestants and dancers performing. Our personal favorite? This paso doble performed by seven former NFL players and contestants to the tune of the Monday Night Football theme song.


See Related Content:
‘Dancing With the Stars,’ Season 21: Official Cast Portraits

Why Peta Murgatroyd Won't Compete on Season 21 of 'DWTS'

How Double-Amputee Noah Galloway Made It Into the ‘DWTS’ Finals — Against All Odds

—By Pauline Vu

SNL’s 5 best Donald Trump skits

Originally published on Nov. 4, 2015.

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Donald Trump is hosting SNL’s Nov. 7 episode. (AP)

GOP presidential candidate and reality TV star Donald Trump hosts Saturday Night Live this weekend (in spite of the backlash against his hosting). But will it live up to his previous entries on the show, both in person and as played by a cast member? We count down his best SNL moments.

5. Trump and his wife clear up some misconceptions (Oct. 4, 2015)

Taran Killan is the latest SNL comedian to take on The Donald’s trademark squint and pout. Here, he and wife Melania (played in all her European glory by Cecily Strong) explain Trump’s real views on immigrants and women. For example, on his perceived gibe about Fox News’ Megyn Kelly: “He was worried, she’s bleeding everywhere, she should go to hospital!”


4. Ross Perot interviews Trump and Pat Buchanan (Oct. 2, 1999)

Darrell Hammond hadn’t perfected his impersonation yet, but the skit’s still hilarious as conservative icon Pat Buchanan (Chris Parnell) and Trump compete for control of the Reform Party then helmed by Ross Perot (Cheri Oteri). Not only that, but this version of Trump actually defended illegal immigration … sort of.


3. Trump makes a cameo on Days of Our Lives (Oct. 29, 2005)

By this point Hammond had his Trump impression down pat, and his version of the businessman just won’t listen to instructions. Stay to the end of the sketch to see what the soap opera’s producers had to do to make up for Trump’s obstinacy.


2. Trump goes on Live With Regis and Kelly (April 3, 2004)

But no one does Trump better than The Donald himself. He goes on the morning show (with Hammond playing Regis while Amy Poehler plays Kelly) and brags about all the TV shows that got their “highest ratings ever” because he was on. Considering his effect on debate numbers, he’s not wrong. No wonder Regis and Kelly wouldn’t let him leave.


1. Trump plugs cheeseburger pizza (May 7, 2005)

This hilarious fake commercial, based on an actual ad, showed the hyper-confident mogul repeatedly disregarding instructions (such as the correct way to pronounce “Domino’s”). This was just one of several SNL skits in this vein (check out Trump’s promos for the Halloween- and Christmas-themed episodes of The Apprentice).  


Honorable Mention

Trump’s first SNL monologue (April 3, 2004)

In his only other hosting appearance, Trump garnered laughs as he urged his doppelgänger (Hammond) to keep saying his trademark “You’re fired” phrase.


—By Pauline Vu

Top 5 moments on Season 21 of ‘Dancing With the Stars’

Originally published on Nov. 20, 2015.

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The season comes down to four finalists. (Good Morning America)

A champion will be announced at the end of Tuesday night’s Dancing With the Stars finale, but for now the Mirror Ball Trophy is still up for grabs. Will the winner be Australian conservationist Bindi Irwin, American hero Alek Skarlatos, former Backstreet Boy Nick Carter, or actor/singer Carlos VegaPena?  

Before tuning into the finale, check out some of this season’s highlights.

5. Tamar Braxton re-creates “Rhythm Nation”
The singer and TV host did a spot-on rendition of Janet Jackson’s iconic music video, right down to the black-and-white filter. Despite her obvious talent, though, Braxton won’t be in the finale — she had to drop out due to blood clots in both her lungs.

4. Alek Skarlatos dances after tragedy
The National Guardsman shot to prominence after helping to take down a shooter on a Paris-bound train, but in the middle of the season, tragedy struck — a mass shooting at his school, Umpqua Community College, left 10 dead. Skarlatos flew home to be with his family and friends, and then returned to the show and performed a paso doble that he dedicated to the grieving Roseburg, Ore., community.

3. Bindi Irwin performs blindfolded
The 17-year-old has routinely wowed the judges, and this flawless Viennese waltz earned her and pro partner Derek Hough a series of perfect 10s.

2. An emotional husband-and-wife elimination
This season featured DWTS’ first-ever married couple, Carlos and Alexa PenaVega. On the Week 9 episode, the duo found themselves in the bottom two, and the tears flowed freely when it was announced that Alexa was eliminated. “I wish it had been me,” Carlos sobbed.

1. Bindi Irwin pays tribute to her dad
Irwin’s father, beloved wildlife expert Steve Irwin, died in 2006 at age 44 of a stingray attack. Here, Bindi discusses his legacy and its impact on her.

Her contemporary dance in her father’s honor had the judges holding back tears.

Honorable Mentions

Nick Carter announces wife’s pregnancy
The former Backstreet Boy announced on the show that his wife Lauren was expecting the couple’s first child, and then performed a moving contemporary dance dedicated to her.

Paula Deen flashes the audience
Well, not really. But her jive got a little frisky.

—By Pauline Vu

Best performances on Season 9 of ‘The Voice’

Originally published on Dec. 11, 2015.

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Jordan Smith is one of the show’s four finalists. (Scripps)

The latest season of NBC’s hit singing competition has come down to the final four: Team Adam’s Jordan Smith, Team Gwen’s Jeffrey Austin, and Emily Ann Roberts and Barrett Baber from Team Blake (Pharell has no singers in the finals). The season has been filled with jaw-dropping performances (along with some behind-the-scenes drama over Blake Shelton and Gwen Stefani’s new romance), but here are our picks for the best.

5. Emily Ann Roberts: “In the Garden”
The country chanteuse’s beautiful take on the classic gospel hymn during the show’s first Live Playoff round propelled her into the Top 12.

4. Barrett Baber: “Ghost,” by Halsey
The country singer showed he can also do rock when he opened the Dec. 7 episode with this passionate performance.

3. Madi Davis: “Girls Just Want to Have Fun,” by Cyndi Lauper
It’s a shame the 16-year-old, Team Pharrell’s last hope, didn’t make the finals. Her unique spin on every song she sings was in full force when she turned Cyndi Lauper’s famous pop song into a haunting ballad about female empowerment.

2. Jeffery Austin: “Make It Rain,” by Ed Sheeren
Unlike the other three finalists, Austin wasn’t a shoo-in for the finals; he had to go up against Madi Davis and Zach Seabaugh to win the show’s final Instant Save. But Austin’s powerful version of Sheeren’s song had America picking him by a big margin.

1. Jordan Smith: “Somebody to Love,” by Queen
From his first performance, Smith proved he was the one to beat, and he got better week after week. His Queen cover in the semifinals not only received more votes than any other Voice contestant ever, it knocked Adele from the top of the iTunes chart (which she’d been leading for five straight weeks).

HONORABLE MENTION

Amy Vachal: “Hotline Bling,” by Drake
Vachal deserves a nod for her breezy take on Drake’s booty call classic.

—By Pauline Vu

Monday, September 24, 2012

The White Tiger: a quintessential India book

The street and residents who live around Asha, the place I volunteered.
I read “The White Tiger” by Aravind Adiga the other day. This is considered the book about India, the one the guidebooks tell you to read for insight. Of course I didn’t read it before going over, or even while I was there.

Anyway, I wish I’d read it first, because there are also things in the book that would have soothed me on those days when Delhi was driving me mad. This passage had me laughing out loud, and reminded me of the time I got lost looking for a nearby restaurant
More local residents
“The truth is that Delhi is a crazy city. See, the rich people live in big housing colonies like Defence Colony or Greater Kailash or Vasant Kunj, and inside their colonies the houses have numbers and letters, but this numbering and lettering system follows no known system of logic. For instance, in the English alphabet, A is next to B, which everyone knows, even people like me who don’t know English. But in a colony, one house is called A 231, and then the next is F 378. So one time Pinky Madam wanted me to take her to Greater Kailash E 231. I tracked down the houses to E 200, and just when I thought we were almost there, E Block vanished completely. The next house was S something.”


Monday, September 03, 2012

The timing's the thing

I start a great new job tomorrow, and I wouldn't have gotten it if I hadn’t gone to India.

No, really. Here’s my recent life timeline: in November, I was fired from a job I hated. I decided to finally follow through on a long-held dream to go to India. I arrived on New Year’s Eve and loved being there so much, I stayed…and stayed…stayed. Despite my father’s claim that I promised to come home after one month (I recall no such promise), I didn't return to the States until mid-May.

A little over a week later, I got a temporary contract job to help with Olympics coverage at a fun tech company that’s kind of hard to get in with (I’ve applied to them twice before and gotten no response). I had a blast at the job and when it ended, the company—which likes to pull from its contractor pool—offered me a long-term contract position, where I'll be doing something I'm actually interested in (it involves following current events, which I already do hours every day for fun).

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

What I'll miss most about India

People really like having their picture taken. After you show it to them, they inevitably thank you.
Most of the time on this blog I complain about India—the men are too aggressive, the postal system sucks, I got robbed, etc. It’s easier (and more fun) for me to write about the bad than the good. But now that I’m back in the States, I want to mention all the things I'll miss about this enthralling, vibrant, lively place.

I’ll miss sitting in the open doorway of a train, parking my feet on the steps, and watching the sun set on some of the most beautiful landscapes I've ever seen.

I’ll miss seeing cricket games in the weirdest of places—narrow alleyways, mountainside trails, a slum’s garbage heap—and the kids who let me play with them (as it turns out, I’m not a bad bowler).

I’ll miss getting afternoon chai in the office, and drinking a cold lemon soda on a stifling hot day.

I’ll miss those random sights that never fail to surprise or delight me: women draped in saris, swinging pickaxes and doing construction work alongside men; the colors that look like a rainbow exploded; the little girls and women in the south, wearing flowers in their beautiful sleek hair.

Monday, May 14, 2012

Backpacker strong

One thing I have to be careful about coming home is gaining weight. When I returned to the U.S. after spending a year in Vietnam in 2006, I quickly gained five pounds thanks to my fierce desire to hit up the dollar menu of every fast food joint within a five-mile radius.

Right now I’m in good shape, even though I don’t work out (I brought a jump rope on my trip and used it twice). I call it backpacker strong. Like how construction workers are fit not because they exercise, but because it’s what they do.

When I was traveling, I’d walk for miles each day. In the steep hill stations of Shimla and Darjeeling, I worked up a sweat just by getting lost.

I’d also stand for hours. Once I couldn’t get a seat on one train’s general seating area and stood for 4.5 hours. Another time I couldn’t get a seat on a bus through the winding hills of Wayanad, and had to hang onto a hand grip for dear life. My arms and shoulders are toned from carrying my heavy backpack from hotel to hotel, in constant search of a good price.

On top of that there are the touristy things you do that make you strong—trekking, whitewater rafting, renting a scooter, etc. I don’t know if I can keep it up now that I’m home. I may have to join a gym.

Sunday, May 13, 2012

The kind of traveler I am

As much as I’ve loved my trip, I have to admit that I didn’t really do India the way I should have. I spent two weeks visiting Rajasthan when I first got to India, lived and volunteered in Delhi for ten weeks, and then traveled what seems like the entire country in my final seven weeks. I visited Mumbai, Goa, numerous places in Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu, and then went north to see Kolkata, Darjeeling, Varanasi and Rishikesh. At some point I liked the idea of criss-crossing the entire subcontinent.

I realize now that I just tried to see and do too damn much. I get bored easily and so insisted on doing something almost every day and visiting every damn site that the guidebook says you should see. But it also exhausted me. And when you don’t sit in a hotel or café and linger and read for a few days, you also don’t meet other travelers to see and do the stuff with. I think learning to be independent is important, but the highlights of my trip still involved seeing and doing things with other people. I don’t think I had nearly as much fun as other backpackers.

The other mistake I made was just being too cheap (it feels like blasphemy to say that, but it’s true). I spent $40 on a 30-hour AC train instead of $150 on a two-hour flight. If I was traveling for months, maybe that makes sense, but I had just seven weeks. I think we can agree that I might have lost a bit of perspective there.

If I did it all again—if only there were a time machine!—I’d see less, do less, move less, spend more, and soak it all in better. 

Saturday, May 12, 2012

My home before going home

After seven weeks of traipsing India—from south India to Darjeeling, Varanasi and Rishikesh—I went back to Delhi (where I lived for ten weeks) to fly out. Literally, I pulled into the city at 11 pm, crashed with a friend, and headed to the airport the next morning.

It felt just a bit like coming home. For seven weeks I’d pulled into a new city, uncertainly pulled out my guidebook, and slowly figured out where to go and how to get there. Sometimes I walked for ages, unsure if I was being cheated. But when I stepped off the train in New Delhi Railway Station, I was all confidence.

To the rickshaw drivers: “How much to Vasant Vihar?”

“Vasant Vihar is very far, ma’am. It is 25 kilometers. 350 rupees.”

“Sir, I lived here, and it is not that far. So how much?”

“300, ma’am. This is night price.”

“That’s still too high. Night price is just 20 percent higher than the meter. Why don’t we use the meter then? Or maybe I’ll take the metro.”

“The metro is closed now.”

“Metro closes at 11 pm, sometimes later. It’s only 10:45 now.”

We settled for 220, although when he asked for more I threw in another 20 rupees.

I’m glad I took the rickshaw. On the way to my friend’s place we passed several of my old haunts—Connaught Place (where I had jeans tailored), Palika Bazaar (where I fixed my camera), Sarojini Nagar (where I bought cheap scarves and clothes), Chanakyapuri (where I played softball), Safdarjung Enclave (where I lived), R.K. Puram (where I volunteered), and even, from far off, the Gateway to India, the first tourist spot I visited.

I loved how familiar it all felt, and was saddened that I didn’t leave at least a few hours to see Delhi one last time. 

Tuesday, May 08, 2012

Hiking the Singalila Ridge Trek from Darjeeling, India

Day 3: Our first--and only--clear views of Khangchengzonga.
Place: Singalila National Park (from Darjeeling)
Dates:
 April 30-May 4, 2012 (five days)
Cost:
 1,400 per day (7,000 per person, for a group of two)
Distance:
86 km
The Travel Agency:
Himalayan Getaway, down the street from Tower View Hotel in Darjeeling
Difficulty Level:
Moderate

This the most popular trek from Darjeeling, going through the Singalila National Park on the border of West Bengal, Sikkim and Nepal (for the first three days you’re weaving in and out of India and Nepal, and the numerous border outposts means you’ll have to register your passport about 6-7 times. On the fourth day, you can briefly trek in Sikkim).

Day 1: Passing Chitrey Gompa.
It’s a pretty trail, taking you through rolling green hills, meadows, rhododendrons, villages and pine and bamboo forests, and on clear days you’ll have amazing views of Khangchangzonga, the world’s third-highest mountain (8,598m). The best times to do the trek are May-June or October-November. Most days start around 7 am, though the guide (required in the national park) will get up around 5:30 am to see if the views are clear and worth waking the trekkers for (we never got up that early). I did the classic five-day trek. See below for how the three-day and four-day treks differ, and other suggestions.

Day 1: 11km from Maney Bhanjyans (2,100m) to Tumling (2,895m)
We hopped in a jeep around 9:30 am and by 11 am reached Maney Bhanjyans for breakfast. The first 2.5km was sharply uphill, the rest more gently sloping. You’ll pass Chitrey Gompa, the only gompa on the trail. We arrived at Tumling (in Nepal) at about 3:30 pm. You haven’t yet entered Singalila National Park, so you can actually do this bit by yourself (get there using shared jeep or public bus from Darjeeling). The scenery is pretty, green like Ireland. 

Saturday, May 05, 2012

Robbed in India! (AKA ‘Reached my breaking point, Part 2’)

So guess who got robbed? If you’re saying me, you’re right! Hey, it had to happen sometime, right? At least it was just a phone. A phone that sells here for 6,000 rupees ($120).

I was charging my Nokia Nuron at one of the train station’s phone charging points. I was loosely keeping an eye on my phone, but was also distracted by my first mosquitoes in a week and the havoc they were wreaking on my ankles. Instead of sitting by phone I was standing and scratching like mad.

I suddenly noticed a man disconnecting my phone from the charger. “Hey!” I said. He pointed innocently to his own phone. He just wanted to use the charger! I was reluctant, since I was mad about him not asking before attempting to use the charger, but I’m often rude to Indian men who are intrusive and then feel guilty about it. And when I lost my charger and couldn’t replace it for a week, I’d wished I could borrow someone else’s for just a few minutes. So it seemed a harmless thing to let him use it for a bit. “Two minutes,” I said, leaving my phone on the shelf next to the charger.

Thursday, May 03, 2012

How being so cheap I didn't want to waste 20 cents saved me almost $200

This post is dedicated to my mate-in-cheapness, Andrea.

So a few weeks ago I found a one-way flight on Thai Airways from Delhi to Los Angeles for $640. It was far cheaper than anything else I’d seen in weeks. I booked it, but with Thai Airways in India, you can’t pay for the flight online; you have to book the flight and then come into a Thai Airways office within 72 hours to pay for it.

It was my last day in Kolkata (and my last chance to make the payment, as I wouldn’t be in a major city with  Thai Airways office again for another two weeks), and it was around 3:45 pm, almost two hours before the office closed. I went online for half an hour to look up the directions and check email and then rushed out, intending to go straight to the office. I asked how much for the Internet.

“Twenty rupees,” the man said. Forty cents.

I paused. In Kolkata, 20 rupees is usually what you pay for an hour, so half an hour should have been 10 rupees (20 cents).

“How much for an hour?” I asked.

“Twenty rupees is the minimum,” he said.

“Yes, but how much for the hour, sir?”

He tried to ignore me. I poked him.

“Twenty rupees.”

I went back to the computer and sat down. If I had to pay for an extra half an hour anyway, I might as well use some of it. 

I started to check my favorite news sites, and then thought, oh, I should re-check the price of my flight. Of course, I didn’t expect it to fall. $640 was already a good deal.

The lowest price was still with Thai Airways. But for some reason, the price had dropped to 22,298 rupees. I did the math and my jaw dropped—it was now about $440 for the exact same flight I currently had booked. I quickly re-booked the flight at the new price, and soon after left to pay for it.

I was literally on my way out the door to pay $640 for a flight that was now $440, and the only thing that stopped me was the café owner declaring I had to pay 20 rupees regardless of whether I used half an hour or one hour. Thank God I’m so cheap I won’t even waste 20 cents. It saved me $200. 

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

One month in South India (Mumbai, Goa, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu) (with pics)

Chinese fishing nets in Kochi.


Hampi is more gorgeous than it appears here, I swear.
For anyone interested in planning a South India trip, here’s how I did mine: 

Days 1-3: Mumbai
Days 4-6: Goa
Days 7-8: Hampi
Day 9: Hampi/Transit to Gokarna
Day 10: Gokarna
Day 11: Transit to Kerala
Days 12-13: Varkala
Day 14: Kollam
Day 15: Alleppey/Transit to Munnar 
Days 16-17: Munnar
Day 18: Transit to Wayanad
Days 19-20: Wayanad/Transit to Kochi
Days 21-23: Kochi
Day 24: Madurai
Days 25-26: Pondicherry/Auroville
Days 27-28: Mamallapuram
Day 29: Chennai/Transit
Day 30: Transit to Kolkata

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

“Kunichiwa!”

I get that a lot. Or the shopkeepers and rickshaw drivers will ask, “Where you from--Korea?” (I guess they don’t they know “hello” in Korean)

It drives me crazy, the presumption that because I’m Asian I must be Japanese, Korean or Chinese. One girl I traveled with is Japanese, and she hates it when people call out kunichiwa. Again, it’s just that assumption that because she’s Asian she must be Japanese (even if it’s a correct assumption). I don’t really get annoyed by people asking where I’m from, even if after I say “the U.S.” they respond with, “But you don’t look like you’re from the U.S.” I know not everyone understands how much diversity there is back home, and then I can explain that my family is from Vietnam.

I always appreciate it when someone puts some thought into their guess. When people asked if I was from Thailand and Indonesia, I said, “No, but good guess!” Yesterday a man called out confidently, “Vietnam,” and I whirled around and said in wonder, “How did you know?”

My sister and I spoke to an Indian guy yesterday who was curious about us being Asian-American. He asked if we ever got teased back home for our race. We said no, but explained that California is incredibly diverse, so there are many Asians. He told us that for him, it was strange to see Asian faces but hear perfect English. 

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Beaches, scooters, wildlife and slums in south India


 Some specifics on what to do with 30 days in south India.

Days 1-3: Mumbai
Walked around Colaba and Fort districts, checking out the colonial architecture and the courtroom. Toured Dharavi slum with Reality Tours. Spent ages trying to mail a parcel. Hopped on 8 pm overnight bus for Goa.

Days 4-6: Goa
After 18 hours of travel and two bus changes, checked into a hotel in Palolem in south Goa at 2 pm. Relaxed on the beach. Rented a scooter and went to the nearby beaches of Agonda and Cola (a beautiful lagoon), as well as Cabo da Ramo, an old Portuguese fort. Went on fun canyoning tour in morning. Hopped on overnight bus to Hampi.

Days 7-9: Hampi
Took an auto rickshaw tour to see the ruins. Moved to the island side on Day 8 and rented a scooter to see the beautiful surroundings and swam in the dam. Visited Hanuman Temple (a 570-step climb) after sunset, and the following day at sunrise. Spent the rest of Day 9 taking local transit to get to Gokarna (rickshaw to Hospet, bus to Hubli, bus to Ankola, bus to Gokarna, rickshaw to Om Beach).

Monday, April 09, 2012

Trains vs. buses in India

India has an extraordinary public transport system, with buses and trains connecting just about every city. But they all have their positives and negatives.

Trains

POSITIVES: Very smooth ride, once the train gets going, and faster than buses. I also love gazing out the window or standing in an open doorway, seeing the world go by. Tatkal ticket scheme helps get tickets the day before travel.

NEGATIVES: Longer trains are almost always late. If an overnight train is only one hour late, I consider that on time. For popular or longer routes, it’s hard to get day-of tickets unless a travel agent can handle things or you go to the train station (where you’ll only get general seating—shudder. If you can’t get a seat in second seating, it’s completely miserable).

WORST TRAIN EXPERIENCE: Once I waited more than 3.5 hours for the Kalka Mail. I told myself I wouldn’t lie on the ground like everyone does, but after yet another delay, I succumbed, spreading my thin airline blanket on the floor. It was after 1 am. I put on my headphones and read my Lonely Planet in a dream-like state. I was at the part about India being crazy for cricket when I heard a cheerful roar go through the station. I immediately thought, “Did India beat Pakistan in the cricket?!?!” I asked someone, “Why is everyone cheering?” He announced, “The Kalka Mail has arrived!”

Public buses

POSITIVES: Almost always leave on time. Often have one leave every hour to major cities, creating plenty of last-minute options.

NEGATIVES: They’re bumpy, lack AC, and if you don’t get one of the Super Fast buses, they make multiple stops to pick up more passengers. They’re also more expensive than trains, which boggles the mind. Oh, and winding mountain roads can be downright scary because of how close the driver is willing to get to the edge (there’s nothing between the bus and a 100-foot cliff except a two-foot-high barrier). I was standing at the front of one bus and when the driver looked like we were going to hit the barrier, I literally squatted and whimpered, unwilling to see us go over. “Just don’t look. It’s better if you don’t look,” my sister said.

WORST PUBLIC BUS EXPERIENCE: I took the overnight bus from the hills of Shimla to Delhi. After an hour of winding round and round the mountain, my seatmate threw up in the aisle. He motioned to me to trade seats so he could get fresh air from the window and I complied. Only after we switched did I realize he hadn’t quite missed the seat.

Private/tourist buses

POSITIVES: More comfortable than public buses. You can pay more for AC or a sleeper for overnight buses. Also conducive to last-minute bookings (I once booked a bus an hour before it was to leave).

NEGATIVES: Considering you’re paying so much more than for a public bus, the service isn’t THAT much greater. Some lines still make multiple stops to pick up stray passengers, instead of just going from A to Z as promised. Also, they don’t have many for short distances.

WORST PRIVATE BUS EXPERIENCE: Even though my ticket clearly stated that I had a single sleeper, the man who took my ticket wouldn’t return it and gave me another sleeper instead—a double, with my bedmate a random American guy (who also was supposed to have a single seat). I blew up, declaring, “I’m not sleeping next to some man I don’t know!” Truth be told, I didn’t care (as I told Zach later), but I was angry because they would NEVER make an Indian women sleep next to a man she didn’t know, and I was annoyed by the assumption that I wouldn’t mind (even if it was true). Later, Zach and I learned a man had used our bed to illegally smuggle liquor out of Goa, where the liquor is cheap. I think he was using the cover of foreigners to do it. I felt like Maria, full of grace

Saturday, April 07, 2012

Stray dogs


Stray dogs are a fact of everyday life here.
I ain't 'fraid of no rabies!
One of the things I love about India is how stray animals are treated—as though they have a right to exist. You don’t see nearly as many strays in the U.S. since we’re quick to put them in pounds. I think we Americans tend to associate strays with rabies and other dangers.

But here, stray dogs and cats (especially dogs) are just a fact of life. You see them everywhere. Locals don’t necessarily pet them or play with them, but they accept that the strays have a right to take up space. I think as a result, the strays become quite docile, and I pet them all the time (after making eye contact and seeing the dog’s tail wag, indicating to me that they’re open to it)(I admit I had two rabies scares, but that was just me panicking about overly playful puppies and kittens!).

My wonderful father has died

Hao Van Vu, who left Vietnam after the war and built a new life in southern California, died on Feb. 20 after a lengthy battle with lun...