Monday, December 19, 2005

Born to be wiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiild...


Seriously, driving a motorbike in Hanoi is a brave new world.

When I came here, the one thing I said I would not do, under any circumstances, was drive a motorbike (mopeds back in the States). There are thousands of motorbikes and the only thing that seems to be lacking on the streets is, well, order. Remember, when I first got here I couldn’t even cross the street without a slight fear for my life.

So every time I get on my bike I’m a little bit amazed I’m doing it. After months of empty streets past midnight, I finally ventured onto the streets in the middle of the day and things just made sense. There are some rules here: follow the crowd, there’s safety in numbers; avoid all cars and by God, don’t get near the buses, they’re vicious; keep one eye constantly to your right in case a motorbike’s about to come careening out of some side alley, and slow down for the intersections where everybody is driving at once. It’s almost like being in a crowded mall or amusement park where you’re pushing past people saying “excuse me, excuse me,” except you’re on motorbikes, bikes shouldn’t actually touch, and no one says “excuse me, excuse me.” In fact, I know from experience they can take off a small piece of your pinkie and not even turn to see the look on your face.

But it is a pure thrill driving around Hanoi. I feel like such a local, except I’m going so slow I’m behind the bikers (and that’s an issue for another day. Frickin’ bikers should know their place isn’t the middle of the road). I rent a piece of shit Sym Power from Taiwan. Our first week together, a new thing stopped working each day: the ignition, gas gauge, horn and turn signal. That’s what you get for trying to save VND100,000 ($6.32) a month by not upgrading to the ubiquitous Honda Wave. I cursed and swore I’d get a Wave as soon as the month was up, but now I can’t let this piece of shit go. It’s really got a hold on me.


What picture blog entry would be complete without a cheesy shot of me?


And from the side...I no longer wear that awful helmet in the basket, by the way. I bought a much cooler one that completely covers my head and face, and no one can see me. I'm practicing taking it off in slow motion and shaking my hair out so that everyone realizes there's actually a hot chick underneath.


More traffic


And more...


And just in case you haven't had your fill of traffic yet.

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