Monuments, forts, safaris and ziplining in Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan

Days 1-3: Delhi

Landed in Delhi. Had a drink with someone I met on the street to toast the New Year. Saw India Gate, the Rajpath and the Central Secretariat building where the government works. Visited the Gandhi Smitri to see the place where Gandhi died.

Days 4-5: Agra

Caught an early-morning train to Agra (Tues).Wandered around Agra’s Taj Ganj neighborhood. Saw the Taj Mahal, Kinari Bazaar and the Jama Masjid. Skipped Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri (the latter of which is apparently a highlight in India, so I may have to go back). Caught the 7 pm train to Sawai Madhopur, arriving at 2 am on Thurs.

Day 6: Sawai Madhopur (Ranthambhore National Park)

Went on a three-hour safari in the hopes of spotting tigers. With no more spots in the six-seater jeeps (“Gypsies”), I sat in a Canter, a 20-seat open-topped bus. We didn’t see any tigers, but did see antelope, deer, peacocks, crocodiles and birds (including an owl and a Kingfisher). Bookings can be done here or through your hotel for a fee.

One of the many antelope-like creatures spotted at Ranthambhore.

Udaipur's Lake Pichola.

Day 7: Transit day.

Booked a ticket on a government bus (meaning there are stops at just about every city between Sawai Madhopur and Udaipur) and 11 hours later, rolled into Udaipur. (Note: I now realize a better option would have been to hang out in Sawai Madhopur all day and then catch the overnight train to Udaipur)

Days 8-10: Udaipur

Wandered around charming, calm Udaipur. Saw the extravagant City Palace. Watched “Octopussy,” the James Bond film set primarily in Udaipur. Took a boat tide on Fatehsagar Lake to Nehru Park island. Went horseback riding in the hills around Udaipur. Took India’s coldest, bumpiest and smelliest overnight bus to Jaisalmer (this was my first overnight bus in India, but others said it was their coldest, bumpiest and smelliest bus ride.).

Days 11-13: Jaisalmer

Explored Jaisalmer fort’s shops and restaurants (it’s the only fort in India that people actually live in). Went on an overnight camel safari in the desert. Walked Jaisalmer’s winding streets looking for the famous havelis (historical mansions). Hopped on a 10 pm bus for Jodhpur.

Overnight camel safari.

Day 14: Jodhpur

Arrived in Jodhpur at 4 am because apparently the only bus that arrives on time in India is the one that I dearly wish would arrive late. Found a hotel that let me hang out in the rooftop restaurant until it opened. Went to Mehrangarh fort and ziplined on the AMAZING Flying Fox. Explored the fort. Relaxed in an overpriced coffee shop. Caught the 6 pm bus, slated to arrive in Jaipur at 2 am. Didn’t worry about the fact I didn’t have a hotel booked because I could call the ones in my guidebook. Realized on the bus that I left my guidebook at the overpriced coffee shop. Almost wept.

Days 15-16: Jaipur

Arrived at 2:30 am and eventually found a hotel, though the price was 700 rupees ($14), twice as much as the most I’d paid so far. Overcome my horror and took the room. Saw the outside of Amer Fort. Explored the Pink City. Bought souvenirs. Watched thousands of kites in the sky during the annual Kite Festival. Hopped on a 5 pm bus for Delhi and arrived at 1:15 am.