Living in Delhi

After two weeks in Rajasthan, I came back to Delhi about a week ago. The plan is to live in Delhi for a month or two while I volunteer. There’s the perspective you have from just being a traveler, and another perspective from actually living in a place.

Delhi was my first stop in India, and I didn’t have high hopes—a friend who’d traveled here mentioned that she just got a bad feeling from Delhi. And the city met all my low expectations. Pahar Ganj, the backpackers’ district, was dirty and filled with people constantly calling out to me. I also got majorly hassled by touts when I ventured to Connaught Place by myself. I was supposed to meet with the charity on Jan. 4, but I pushed back the start date because I had to get out of Delhi.

Now that I’m back, I’m realizing the city isn’t as charmless as I initially thought. When you go places that aren’t in the guidebook, you realize Delhi has big green parks, wide avenues, and night markets where everyone’s not calling out, “Where are you from? Japan?” It has a public transportation system that's far better than those in Los Angeles and Washington, D.C., the last two cities I lived in. The metro is beautifully clean, cheap, and efficient, complete with a women-only carriage.

It’s only been one week, but I may just like it here.

Cost of 16 days traveling around India: just under $400 (and that's for everything)

So for 16 days and nights of travel I spent $390. Here's a breakdown of my top expenses.

ACCOMMODATION: Ranged from 200 rupees ($4) in Jaisalmer to 700 rupees ($14) in Jaipur. The higher price was an anomaly, though. Absent that, my accommodation averaged $5.67, mostly for a single.

FOOD: Ranged from 5 rupees (10 cents) for a street snack like a samosa to 300+ rupees for a fancier meal that included overpriced Kingfisher beer. Really, they burned us on the beer.

Monuments, forts, safaris and ziplining in Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan

Days 1-3: Delhi

Landed in Delhi. Had a drink with someone I met on the street to toast the New Year. Saw India Gate, the Rajpath and the Central Secretariat building where the government works. Visited the Gandhi Smitri to see the place where Gandhi died.

Days 4-5: Agra

Caught an early-morning train to Agra (Tues).Wandered around Agra’s Taj Ganj neighborhood. Saw the Taj Mahal, Kinari Bazaar and the Jama Masjid. Skipped Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri (the latter of which is apparently a highlight in India, so I may have to go back). Caught the 7 pm train to Sawai Madhopur, arriving at 2 am on Thurs.

Day 6: Sawai Madhopur (Ranthambhore National Park)

Went on a three-hour safari in the hopes of spotting tigers. With no more spots in the six-seater jeeps (“Gypsies”), I sat in a Canter, a 20-seat open-topped bus. We didn’t see any tigers, but did see antelope, deer, peacocks, crocodiles and birds (including an owl and a Kingfisher). Bookings can be done here or through your hotel for a fee.

16 days in Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan

For anyone interested in planning a Rajasthan trip in India, here’s how I did mine:

Days 1-3: Delhi
Days 4-5: Agra
Day 6: Sawai Madhopur (Ranthambhore National Park)
Day 7: Transit day to Udaipur
Days 8-10: Udaipur
Days 11-13: Jaisalmer
Day 14: Jodhpur
Days 15-16: Jaipur

(Note: I could have EASILY dropped a day each from Delhi and Agra, had my planning been better.)

Highlights:

• Marveling at the Taj Mahal.
• Going on a camel safari in Jaisalmer.
• Flying around Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur on ziplines.
• Relaxing in lovely Udaipur.

Lowlights:

• Getting sexually harassed in Agra by two little boys (more on that later).
• Leaving my Rough Guide behind in an overpriced coffee shop in Jodhpur.
• Arriving in Jodhpur at 4 am with no plan as to what to do until Mehrangarh Fort opened at 9 am.
• Arriving in Jaipur at 2:30 am with no hotel booked.
• Arriving back in Delhi at 1:15 am with no hotel booked (you’ll notice a pattern here).

Scenes from India, Part 2 (Agra)

My first train (to Agra). I love how they have names.

Indulging in some American-style chips.

Scenes from India, Part I (Delhi)

These have become my favorite chip flavor. Reminds me of home

After my 25-hour flight and layover, I made it!

Vignettes of Delhi

Anil says he’s walking with me to Connaught Place because he wants to practice his English, and I don’t know yet that he’s a tout. We talk about the police that were out in force the previous Saturday night (New Year’s Eve), trying to stem Delhi’s big drunk driving problem. “I like that there were so many cops out, since I’m always walking by myself. It makes me feel safe,” I say. He warns, “Don’t go out by yourself at night. The police would not do anything to help you.” I’m surprised. “Really?” He says cheekily, “Haven’t you heard of corruption in India?” I think, but don’t say, “I’ve seen Slumdog Millionaire. Does that count?”

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