The trip to Nicaragua ends

The last day is just a transport one, from Granada to Managua airport to fly back to the States. I realized that as much as I loved traveling with a friend, traveling solo has its benefits too.

ANOTHER OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL

The Place: Granada, Managua, Nicaragua

The Date: March 23, 2009
Journal Date: April 30, 2009

“FINAL DAY: Uneventful. We parted at the airport, and I wrote Marj a not that I loved her THIS MUCH. I really did have a great time with Marj, but it just wasn’t a challenge. I came back from Ecuador and Colombia thrilled with all the people I’d met, both foreigners and locals. In comparison, I only met one Nica who wasn’t connected to the tourism industry (admittedly, Nicas are the least friendly Latinos I’ve met so far. I couldn’t believe how often hostel employees left me waiting, or gave me dour looks for daring to ask them to help me).

But just once, while wandering Leon on my own at night, did I meet a real Nica. The woman saw me taking pictures and came up to warn me that it wasn’t safe. Then we started talking about how things were good for awhile but about three years ago the jobs left and so crime rose (I later found out from an expat that three years ago Daniel Ortega won the presidency and foreign businesses began leaving). The woman seemed like a busybody but a well-meaning one. And I enjoyed my brief chat with her.

I wonder where I’ll go next for the next trip abroad. (Note: this was written almost two years ago and I haven’t left the country since! But the answer is India.)

What You Should Know: From Granada to the airport, Paxeos charged $18 if they have to pick you up from your hotel, but if you go to their office in the square and leave at one of their designated shuttle times it’s only $12 each. They have six times a day when they leave for the airport: 3:45 am, 5:45 am, 9:45 am, 12:45 pm, and two more times which I can’t recall. 

Around Granada: Ziplining on Volcan Mombacho, buying cigars, and beautiful Laguna de Apoyo

On our last full day in Nicaragua we went ziplining in Mombacho Volcano Nature Reserve on Volcan Mombacho and then spent an afternoon at the crater lake of Laguna de Apoyo. Both were fun – the latter more than the former – but the thing that stands out most is "Rico," the annoying guide/fixer who we hired to find us a cab to take us to Apoyo and who ended up inviting himself to go with us to the lake. (Note: I apologize for the lack of pictures. I had very bad luck with cameras in Nicaragua, despite bringing not one but TWO cameras. All my shots have been borrowed from my friend Marjorie.)

ANOTHER OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL

The Place: Granada, Mombacho Volcano Nature Reserve, Laguna de Apoyo, Nicaragua
The Dates: March 22, 2009
Journal Date: April 30, 2009

“So we got up early to do some ziplining. I thought there was just one company to do it with, but there are actually two, and unfortunately we picked the safer one. Not only did we have to wear helmets (ugly-ass ones), but we had to hold the zipline a very specific, safe way, so no Supermans for us. I would’ve liked to try the Superman.

It was a thrill when we were actually ziplining, but on the whole too short. The freefall was fun, though, and so neat to see the zarigueya slowly climbing the wire of the zip line. I touched her tail with my glove. She was unafraid of us. I wish I’d seen her babies sooner.

Granada: I liked Leon better

The Granada Cathedral

So Granada was cute, but a bit fake. I couldn't help but prefer Leon.

ANOTHER OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL

Cute and colorful street. Although I can't recall if this is Granada or Leon.

The Place: Granada, Nicaragua
The Dates: March 21, 2009
Journal Date: April 30, 2009

"We left early the next day for Granada. It took awhile to get there because we had to wait for ages for the public bus, the first time we’ve had to wait in Nica. We realized later that’s because Granada is just a bit of a fake town – painted over for tourists, expats and rich Nicas…

Granada was cute. But we kept comparing it to Leon and finding it wanting. Leon just seemed more like a city where real Nicas lived, more authentic.

We did, however, really enjoy a boat ride to Las Isletas. The block of 365 islands in Lake Nicaragua are now each the home of a rich person/expat/family. For $10 for one hour, our guide, Jose, took us in his boat and pointed out the various homes, who they belonged to (like the family that owns the Flor de Caña rum), whether they were on sale, etc. We marveled that one home for rent would make a great corporate retreat. We tipped Jose well, and he asked us to bring him an American flag on our return.

We eventually did have a big night that night, a Saturday. One outdoor restaurant with a band was bumping, with both foreigners and Nicas. M and I danced with Nica men who had trouble letting us go. It was good drunken fun, as Marj’s pics show (since I left my backup camera on la playa of Charco Verde. I still think the witch took it)."

What You Should Know: For the tour of Las Isletas, Jose Chavarria Obando is a nice, knowledgeable man who we met on the dock. If he’s still there, I highly recommend him (though he only speaks Spanish). His cell number is 688-5768. 

Review of Hotel Charco Verde (assignment for travel writing class)

In August 2009, I started an online travel writing class with UCLA Extension. I quickly quit it for a myriad of reasons (dad got cancer, I quit my job that was to reimburse me for the class, UCLA let me out of the class for a full refund, etc.), but here's one of three assignments I managed to turn in first, my hand at more traditional travel writing.

"Any resort or hotel on Nicaragua’s figure-eight-shaped Ometepe Island really only has to fulfill one goal: don’t take away from the island’s natural wonders.

The Charco Verde resort not only meets that goal but does its part to enhance Ometepe’s beauty. No room is more than 200 feet from a small, black-sand beach. Unlike the more popular Santa Domingo beach on the island’s northern, windy side, the waves at Charco Verde are warm and gentle. A small playground and kayaks for rent line the resort’s beach.

Best of all, the resort is just steps away from the trail to the Charco Verde Reserve, a green lagoon surrounded by mangrove trees that’s cordoned off to development. Before you’re three minutes in, you’ll encounter a family of howler monkeys (get used to hearing them from your room at night). Easily marked paths in the reserve take you to higher ground and a lovely view of Volcan Maderas in the southern half of the island. Just beware of Chico Largo, the witch who supposedly guards the reserve. According to legend, he’ll offer you a life of luxury in exchange for your soul – which he then converts to cattle.

The wonders of Isla Ometepe, otherwise known as “magical-mystical island”

Volcan Concepcion

From the moment we got to Isla Ometepe, Nicaragua’s figure-eight-shaped island, everything felt magical. The island is anchored by two volcanoes, Volcan Concepcion on the northern part and Volcan Maderas in the south. It is the largest island located in Lake Nicaragua, and the largest volcanic island inside a freshwater lake (thanks, Wikipedia!).

ANOTHER OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL

The Place: Isla Ometepe, Nicaragua (Charco Verde, El Ojo de Agua)

The Dates: March 19-20, 2009

Journal Date: April 30, 2009

“We spent all day getting to Isla Ometepe [from Leon]. … We stayed at Hostal Charco Verde because with just two days, we couldn’t venture too far into the island. As soon as we got there, though, we realized what an amazing place it was (hence the moniker “magical-mystical island”). Island life just has a slow beat to it. Charco Verde was particularly lovely, with warm, shallow beaches. I definitely preferred it to Las Penitas’ wild waves. We went for a walk in the Charco Verde Nature Reserve and not three minutes in encountered wild howler monkeys. We were almost scared.

Hiking Volcan Telica with Quetzaltrekkers in Leon, Nicaragua

Sun setting on Volcan Telica.

If you have the chance, sign up for a hike with Quetzaltrekkers, a trekking outfit based in both Nicaragua and Guatemala. It’s staffed by foreign volunteers, and the proceeds help street kids in Leon. The two-day Volcan Telica is one of their many Nicaraguan options.

ANOTHER OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL

The Place: Leon, Nigaragua (Volcan Telica)

The Dates: March 17-18, 2009

Journal Date: April 30, 2009

“We headed on an overnight camping trip the next day. It was my first-ever camping trip where I carried my own sleeping bag and gear, and it wasn’t too bad. If there’s one thing I learned, it’s that I brought way too much water. I simply don’t need as much as other people.

Our group had 7 people and 3 guides. Unfortunately, no one was hot (I was hoping for an Aussie we met a few days earlier, but instead we got a chubby Israeli), and there were two European couples. But Brad, a young American, hung out with me and Marj, and though he seemed quiet at first, we eventually opened up. 

Volcano surfing (more like sledding) down Cerro Negro in Leon, Nicaragua

You probably won’t have the chance to slide down a volcano anywhere else in the world, much less an active one. But Cerro Negro’s pebbly black sand just lends itself to throwing yourself down its steep sides.

ANOTHER OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL

The Place: Leon, Nigaragua (Cerro Negro)

The Date: March 16, 2009

Journal Date: March 23, 2009

“Volcano surfing involved lugging a heavy wooden board to the top of Cerro Negro, and then sledding down what must be about a 90-degree angle (it isn’t)… It wasn’t the hardest trek I’ve ever done, but it was still scary because of the strong winds the higher up we got, and the narrow paths. At one point we were told to hold our boards horizontally and flat to let the wind pass easier because if the wind caught the boards it’d probably toss us away. I went through one stretch where all I did was say Hail Marys.

And when it became time to slide down? Freaky. I thought Danny, our guide, was joking when he indicated where the “track” was. It looked so steep. My fear ebbed as people kept going and looked fine, but I was still nervous (despite my oversized bright-orange Guantanamo Bay jumpsuit). I confessed my fear to Danny, who said, “People never regret going too fast, and they always regret going too slow.” Despite that, when I took off in my race against Grace, who also pledged to go slow, I used the “tap-tap-tap” method Danny told us to use to go slower (punctuated by my nervous yells of “taptaptaptaptap…!”). Only halfway through did I decide it wasn’t too scary and put my feet completely on my board – and I loved it. I was fast and furious, until I crashed. But even that wasn’t so bad, and I just giggled as I got back on. I ended up with a top speed of 37 kph – far better than Grace’s 29 kph, but far behind Danny’s 60+, Richard’s 50+, and the record’s 80+ kph.”

What You Should Know: To go sledding with Bigfoot Hostel it was $23.50, plus another $4 to enter Cerro Negro. There are other surfing tours, but before you sign on, inquire what their definition of surfing is. While we were up there we saw another group that didn’t have to put on our silly-looking protective gear (goggles and heavy orange jumpsuits). However, they surfed down standing (more like real surfing) and they also moved incredibly slow compared to us sledding speedsters. 

Days 1-3 of my trip to Nicaragua: Managua, Leon and Las Peñitas

One of the many lion statues found in Leon. I didn't get it at first. Then I realized I was stupid.

ANOTHER OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL

The Place: Managua, Leon and Las Peñitas, Nicaragua
The Dates: March 13-15, 2009
Journal Date: March 23, 2009

“Day 1, Friday, March 13, arriving at Managua airport: My friend and I got picked up by the Managua Backpackers Inn shuttle, sharing the car with a young, chatty American couple where the guy was way hotter than the girl. How does that happen so often? …She seemed like the dominant half of the couple. There must be a plethora of mild-mannered, good-looking men out there.

We took a cab to La Casa de los Mejia Godoy, a famous restaurant that has live, traditional music played by either the famous Mejia Godoy brothers or some other hot acts. One of the brothers, Don Luis Enrique, was playing. Although I don’t remember the music, I liked it, and judging by the laughter around me, Don Luis seemed to be a charming host. Marj and I got up and danced, awkwardly, and took our picture with him as though he were a rock star. It was, overall, a decent night in a city most people tend to avoid. 

TRIP FLASHBACK: Nicaragua

Volcan Concepcion on Isla Ometepe.

In Nicaragua, it’s possible to do a lot for a little in a short amount of time. Stick with the Leon-Granada-Ometepe triangle and you’ll have plenty to occupy your time.

The place: Nicaragua (Managua, Leon, Last Peñitas, Isla Ometepe, Granada and Laguna de Apoyo)

The dates: March 13-23, 2009

Approximate cost: $780 for 10 days and nights, including airfare from Washington, D.C. Main components: Volcan Cerro Negro surfing tour ($23.50 for tour, $4 admission to volcano); two-day Volcan Telica tour with Quetzaltrekkers, $40; Mombacho rain forest ziplining tour, $28

Miscellaneous costs: $2 for a plato tipico, or set meal; $2 for a “Nica Libre,” the local take on a Cuba Libre; $2 for the 1.5-hour bus ride from Managua to Leon; $2.50 for a women’s hair cat; $2 for a single elite Nicaraguan cigar

Highlights: Surfing down a volcano in Leon. Hiking Volcan Telica with Quetzaltrekkers. Everything about Isla Ometepe, but especially El Ojo de Agua. Ziplining on Volcan Mombacho. Spending a relaxing afternoon at beautiful Laguna de Apoyo.

Timeline:

3/13 (Fri): Arrived in Managua at night and dined at La Casa de Los Mejia Godoy, a famous Nicaraguan restaurant.

3/14: Headed to Leon and explored the city, including the Museum of Myths and Legends.

3/15: Headed to nearby Las Peñitas for a taste of beach life. It wasn’t that interesting. Apparently we’d just missed the previous night’s huge Saturday party.

3/16: Returned to Leon and did the volcano surfing tour down Cerro Negro with Bigfoot Hostel.

3/17-3/18: Went on a Volcan Telica overnight hike with Quetzaltrekkers.

3/19: Headed to Isla Ometepe by way of Managua, Rivas and San Jorge. Was greeted by the cries of howler monkeys in the nearby Reserva Charco Verde.

3/20: Headed to El Ojo de Agua natural spring pools, then to southern part of island to look for petroglyphs.

3/21: Headed to Granada and hired a boat to tour Las Isletas.

3/22: Went ziplining in forests on Volcan Mombacho. In afternoon hired a taxi to go to Laguna de Apoyo. Returned to Granada that night.

3/23: Took Paxeos shuttle to Managua to fly back to Washington, D.C.

The rest of my Ecuador trip: the Quilotoa Loop and Baños

The scene from the bus in the Quilotoa Loop. 

The problem about only recording your trip in a travel journal is that it takes a damn long time to write everything by hand, and you may not have finished your thoughts by the time you get back to your regular life. And then you’re out of time to write it down then.

Lake Quilotoa

So I didn’t have time to note much after I left the jungle. As I headed back to the U.S., I rushed it all with a quick rundown so I wouldn’t forget what happened, but there’s so much I wish I had expanded on (the beauty of the Quilotoa…the kids who live there…my odd hitch-hiked trip from Quilotoa to Baños…karaoke that last night in Baños...joking with the bus drivers from Baños back to Quito). You’ll notice the dates correspond with my Trip Flashback for Ecuador.

Anyway, Ecuador is wonderful!

ANOTHER OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL

The Place: Quito, Baños, Quilotoa Loop, Ecuador

The Date: Feb. 21-25, 2008

Journal Date: Feb. 25, 2008

“Thurs, 21 – Left jungle and went to Quito. Arrived at midnight. Hostel didn’t have cheap dorm for me. I started to look for another hostel. Made it about 30 feet and came back. “Tengo miedo,” I said. (“I’m scared.”) (NON-JOURNAL MEMORY: In my defense, Quito is not the safest of places. A fellow traveler on the jungle tour had her camera stolen in broad daylight. Some guys on a motorcycle grabbed her camera strap and drove off, dragging her several feet before they managed to wrangle the camera)

Our jungle guide who finds the animals and hits on the single girls

Nacer finds a baby caiman.

Well, it’s all in the title. Nacer was amazing at spotting animals (remember, he could hear a croak, identify it as a poisonous frog, catch it and bring it back to us) and also hands-on with the single chicks of the group  (but nothing you couldn't ward off).

ANOTHER OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL

The Place: Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, Samona Lodge, Ecuador

The Dates: Feb. 18-21, 2008

Journal Date: Feb. 25, 2008

Showing us how to fish for piranhas.

“We got into line to enter the boat that would take us to our lodge, and I was somewhere near the back when I heard them ask for someone who was alone. “That’s me!” I called out, moving up. “Estoy soltera!” (“I’m single!”) Nacer, our guide, said, “Estas soltera?” and made it a point to shake my hand, to laughs all around.

…Last of all, Nacer, our all-seeing guide who looked like he was infantry, with his camouflage pants and sleeveless olive vest. One other group took pictures of Nacer with his knife between his teeth. He spotted and found so many animals – he’s really a great guide. He made subtle moves on me and Eloise (I guess it makes sense – why wouldn’t a good-looking guide hit on the two single girls of the group?). He asked me if I wanted to go see the thunderstorm. I said no. He tried again. I said I didn’t want to get wet. He promised it would be a unique experience. I ruefully shook my head.

He was much more hands-on with Eloise, tough, hugging her around the neck from behind and massaging her shoulders. She didn’t seem to mind (whereas I definitely would’ve shied away). On the last night, he seemed pretty frantic to get her to stay out and play cards with him.

I only got really annoyed with him at the end, when I came up to him with a $20 bill, asking if he had $10 in change because I wanted to tip him $10 but a $20 was all I had. He said he had nothing. I then started talking about paying for my drinks to get change. Or leaving his tip with others, and wah-lah! He had change aplenty. I didn’t notice this, but Eloise said as I was talking about getting change, he was giving me this look like he couldn’t believe I wouldn’t just give him the full $20.

What You Should Know: Have change.

Nacer and Pancho. Yes, almost every pic I have of him, he's with an animal. He's that good with them!

Taking an overnight bus from Quito to Lago Agrio (Ecuador)

Here’s something I learned about myself while taking an overnight bus from Quito to Lago Agrio: I'm whiny, and I can't get over it.

ANOTHER OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL

The Place: An overnight bus from Quito to Lago Agrio, where my Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve tour started

The Date: Feb. 17-18, 2008

Journal Date: Feb. 25, 2008

A street in Lago Agrio.

“That 7½-hour overnight ride to Lago Agrio was one of the worst bus rides in my life. It was so damn cold and I had packed both my blanket and my socks away. And since I kept thinking about how cold I was, I couldn’t even begin to concentrate on sleeping. It turns out that when something is bothering me, no power on earth can get me to stop inwardly whining about it. After several hours I finally stuffed my right foot into my cloth-wallet-turned-camera case, and my left into a plastic bag, and jammed them both into my black shoes. After that I managed to sleep about one hour before we arrived in Lago Agrio.

It’s an oil city that for some reason reminds me of the Old West. I guess because Lonely Planet describes it as having prostitution and other such lawlessness. I bought an Adidas hair band, though I was pretty close to buying one that said, “I Love You” all over it.”

What You Should Know: The bus leaves Quito’s main bus station and cost about $8.

You can buy milk to drink straight from the goat.

The baby monkey that peed on me in the Cuyabeno jungle (Ecuador)

Me and Pancho during our brief, glorious truce.

If you come to Ecuador’s Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, you may encounter a (fairly) domesticated baby monkey at your lodge. At least, my lodge had one.

OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL #4

The Place: Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, Samona Lodge

The Dates: Feb. 18-21, 2008

Journal Date: Feb. 25, 2008

“The best thing about Samona Lodge was Pancho, the resident baby monkey. His parents were killed, I think, the lodge took him in, and he was everybody’s favorite plaything. He was quick to climb on people, and incredibly slow to let go. The first night he was all over me, and it’s a weird thing to feel a monkey’s tail around your neck.

Then he peed on me, and everything changed. I didn’t handle it very well. I jumped up and tried to pull his tail from my neck, yelling, “Get him off me!” Two guides tried to pull him off, but Pancho hates to be forced off someone and only held on all the tighter. He started shrieking, so we were both making a ruckus, and finally someone got him off. I ran off to shower, but not before telling a skeptical Trine, when she asked if Pancho really peed on me, “Touch the monkey pee!”

Tom shows the proper way to act when a monkey pees on you: DON'T freak out.

The experience tainted me for Pancho. For the rest of the trip, save for one blessed, brief moment that I quickly cashed in on with a photo, he seemed to avoid me, even scorning my offers of food. Ouch. And later, when he peed on Tom and shat on Jen, they handled it with so much class, I couldn’t help but be ashamed.”  

And how the Chinese do New Year's in Los Angeles' Chinatown

We already looked at the celebrations of the Vietnamese. And now, the Chinese in Los Angeles ring in the Lunar New Year!

The Thien Hau temple in Chinatown on New Year's Day.

Ringing the gong.

How the Vietnamese celebrate Tet (Vietnamese New Year) in Orange County, California

Soon we'll look at how the Chinese celebrated the New Year. But first, the Vietnamese. The biggest crowds in Little Saigon were at a Buddhist temple in Westminster on Wednesday night.

Meeting the Siona tribe's shaman in the Cuyabeno

Eloise receives a blessing from the Siona tribe shaman.

If you've signed up for a tour of the Cuyabeno rainforest in Ecuador, seeing a shaman is definitely a part of it. For me, it was far from a highlight of the tour, but hopefully other people had more interesting experiences.

OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL #3

The Place: Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, Siona tribe’s village

The Date: Feb. 20, 2008

Journal Date: Feb. 25, 2008

“The shaman, a medicine man and a revered figure in the community, wasn’t that interesting because we waited so long to see him (another group was meeting him) and we didn’t hear much about the mystical side of his work. There he was, dressed in full regalia, covered with bird feathers and wearing a necklace of jaguar teeth, and yet he did barely any talking. Someone would ask a question and Nacer [our guide] would answer. I felt like the shaman just looked small and bored. I did find it interesting that Nacer said the Siona believe heaven is a place of hammocks, and that God has already told the shaman there’s a hammock waiting for him. I love that image. Westerners have this image of a bunch of people in white robes with wings and harps, standing on clouds. How dull.

I came up to the shaman and asked as much as I could about how he could tell where someone was hurt, whether he spoke to God and saw spirits. He said when he’s under the influence of a certain hallucinogenic drug, he can see people’s aura and that tells him when something’s wrong with them. And, yes, he can see spirits, and God tells him to be good."

Animal life in Ecuador's Cuyabeno rainforest

We visited the home of a 12-foot anaconda.

The diversity of animal life in the Cuyabeno, part of the Amazonian ecosystem, is amazing. A sampling of animals we saw on my trip: a poisonous frog, a 12-foot anaconda, and even the rare pink dolphin that lives in the Amazon.

OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL #2

The Place: Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, Ecuador (tour pickup in Lago Agrio)

The Dates: Feb. 18-21, 2008 (Monday-Thursday)

Journal Date: Feb. 25, 2008

You get around the forest by boat...

“We got into line to enter the boat that would take us to our lodge ... “It’s like the Jungle Cruise at Disneyland – only real!” I said. It was amazing. We saw a colony of monkeys crossing the river in the treetops above.

That night we went on a jungle walk. … We saw stick insects, spiders, and frogs, a tiny one of which jumped on my jeans. I placed my hand near it and cooed, “Come on, come on,” and when it hopped on my hand I yelled, “Ahh, it’s on me, it’s on me!” But the freakout lasted for one second. Then I held it up for others to take pictures.

Visiting a prison in Quito, Ecuador

My arm was stamped at the prison entrance
to show I was a visitor.

Ever wonder what it’s like to live in a South American prison? Just visit one! Travelers to Ecuador can visit the women’s and men’s prisons in Quito.

OLD TRAVEL JOURNAL #1

The Place: Carcel de las Mujeres (women’s prison) in Quito, Ecuador
Date of Visit: Feb. 17, 2008 (Sunday)
Journal Entry Date: Feb. 22, 2008

“I entered with the name of the of the prison’s only American prisoner – Melanie – surrendered my passport, camera and cell phone, got stamped on the left wrist to prove I didn’t belong there, and entered. I saw what looked like the alley of a major city, with clotheslines strewn all over the place between tall buildings, and children everywhere. They were just madly playing.